Large eddy simulation of regular waves breaking over a sloping beach

Pierre Lubin (1) , Hubert Branger (2) , Olivier Kimmoun (3)

1 TREFLE - Transferts, écoulements, fluides, énergétique
2 IRPHE - Institut de Recherche sur les Phénomènes Hors Equilibre
3 ECM - École Centrale de Marseille

The scope of this paper is to show the results obtained for the Large Eddy Simulations (LES) of three-dimensional regular waves shoaling and breaking over a sloping beach, by solving the Navier-Stokes equations in air and water. The interface tracking is achieved by a Lax-Wendroff TVD scheme, which is able to handle with interface reconnections. The breaking processes including shoaling, overturning, splash-up and air entrainment, will be presented and discussed.

Mots clés: numerical simulation; waves; breaking; LES

Domaines: Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]; Océan, Atmosphère

Pierre Lubin, Hubert Branger, Olivier Kimmoun. Large eddy simulation of regular waves breaking over a sloping beach. 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE 2006), Sep 2006, San Diego, CA, United States. pp.238-250, ⟨10.1142/9789812709554_0021⟩. ⟨hal-00092703⟩